Coober Pedy, Painted Desert, Oodnadatta Track, Flinders Ranges and Menindee Lakes

Hello all
Well that itch got me again, so on went the camper and I was off again, first stop was Green Hill Lake Camping area just near Ararat. This is an unpowered free site with mobile and TV reception from nearby Ararat, but with a little bit of traffic noise from the highway. First night was cold and the camper gas heater got a bit of a workout.
Next night was Crystal Brook about 100k short of Port Augusta, a great little Park.

Island Lagoon near Woomera

Next stop was Glendambo Roadhouse on the Stuart Highway, not bad and a $16 Lamb Roast at the Pub. Onwards to Coober Pedy, I admit I am not a fan of this place, so a quick shop and refuel and I was out of there, I must admit it was a bit better than last time.....

Guess where?

I was heading to the Painted Desert on Arkaringa Station, this meant traveling across Moon Plain, Moon Plain has been used for Movie scenes and is well named.

Moon Plain scenery

 

Moon plain

After about 90k of this I was thinking I wasn't going to get a highlight photo........there was no highlight...........then in the distance I saw something.

Moon Plain highlight, a burnt out car

There was another 45k after that to Arkaringa Station, at this point I should tell you that I have NEVER experienced flies like I have on this trip. Swarms and swarms of annoying flies, in your eyes, in your mouth, in your ears, I had no option but to break out the fly net and look like a fool. I wore it every time I got out of the vehicle until the lower Flinders. even some of my photos have flies in them, they were so thick.

Camp at Arkaringa Station

 It was an interesting night at Arkaringa, for company I had an older couple in the OKA and a lone German man (who was 60yo, looked 45yo and swam in the Montreal Olympics for the German Democratic Republic) we sat by the campfire, drank, watched the shooting stars and distant lightning until after midnight. By early morning the storms reached us, and unusually, it was dead calm, then very windy and dusty, then about 6 drops of rain then calm again. This cycle continued for several hours, the remaining storms still lingering into mid morning.

Painted Desert

Painted Desert

  

Painted Desert

After the Painted Desert it was on to Oodnadatta, I have been here many times and let me tell you there is no Progress Association here...............It looks more untidy and dilapidated than ever.

The Pink Roadhouse (the best building here)

It was now time to head South down the Track I last traveled in 1989.

scenery?

In 1985 when I traveled along here the Old Ghan Railway buildings where relatively intact and every few kilometres there were huge piles of salvaged Railway sleepers waiting to be carted away, now not a lot remains sadly.

Railway embankment at Mt Dutton

Mt Dutton Fettlers Camp

Onwards towards Algebuckina Rail Bridge, to this day still the longest single bridge in South Australia with 19 spans each 30.9 metres long. 

Algebuckina Bridge

Officially opened in 1892, costing 60,000 pounds and 352 men in it's construction. to this day it is still an imposing structure over the Neales River.

Algebuckina Bridge

Animal sighting were reasonably with an over 1 metre goanna on the road, and 1.5 metre snake and 4 dingo's.

dingo

Edward Creek Siding ruins

After edward creek it was into William Creek for the night, William Creek (population 10) is situated in the largest cattle station in the world, Anna Creek Station (approximately the size of Germany) and still owned by the Kidman Pastoral Company.

William Creek Hotel

 After another night camped with the German chap it was into the sand dune country.

Oodnadatta Track

Beresford Siding was interesting as it was more intact than a lot of the others, and had a (dry) dam adjacent (complete with Dingo)

 

desalination tower

 The artesian water contained lots of minerals and salt and was unsuitable for the boilers on the steam engines of old so desalination plants were built at regular intervals along the old Ghan line.

Beresford Siding

Beresford Siding

Heading further South I would have liked to stop the night at Coward Springs camping ground but still being morning I pushed on to The Bubbler and Blanche Cup. These are both Mound Springs where the Artesian water bubbles to the surface.

The Bubbler

The photo above shows the sand being stirred by the water pressure, there was also air bubbles happening.

The Bubbler

Blanche Cup

Not far down the track is Curdimurka Siding, this siding has been restored by The Ghan Preservation Society, who also, up until a few years ago held the Curdimurka Black Tie Ball here every year since 1984 attracting thousands of formally dressed revelers.

Curdimurka Desalination plant

The trees surrounding the Siding were certainly popular with the bird life.

Galah's and a Corella

Corella

Curdimurka (yes that's a fly)

Lake Eyre South was the next stop, unfortunately dry now, but still a great sight.

Lake Eyre South

Lake Eyre South

Pressing on towards tonight's stop, Maree I passed some pretty odd sights. I believe a local artist got bored and decided to create some sculptures. There was a giant dog (created using a Railway Tank, a flower from a windmill and numerous other strange items.

giant dog

Ghan Hover Bus

Giant person made from auto parts

giant sitting person

giant flower (from windmill)

And last, but certainly not least was Plane Henge.

Plane Henge

Overnight was Maree, with lots of Ghan Railway  Historical displays and The Lake Eyre Yacht Club. Lake Eyre usually only fills one every 20 or so years.

Lake Eyre Yacht Club

Next was Farina ruins, the campground there was fantastic, but still being early in the day I needed to push further on. The ruins were also interesting, covering a quite large area with informative information boards.

Farina

 

Farina

Farina

old underground bakery at Farina

Farina

These old ruins are amazing as you can see the trouble the early settlers had and the detail they achieved to make these buildings in this harsh environment.

wood paneling still visible inside

It was time to push on and it was off to Brachina Gorge in the Flinders Ranges. The road through Brachina basically drives up the dry creek bed, so is pretty rough but do-able in a car.

heading into Brachina

view from campsite in Brachina Gorge

typical Flinders view

Wilpena Pound from Hucks Lookout

I headed North from Wiplena Pound, destination Blinman and Parachilmna Gorge. I first had to stop and take a photo of the Great Wall in front of the Great Wall of China (Australian version) 

The Great Wall at The Great Wall

Parachilna Gorge

 

Parachilna Gorge

  Next was the Moralana Scenic Drive which I would highly recommend.

Moralana Scenic Drive

Elder Range from Moralana

Elder Range from Moralana

 

stunning Flinders scenery

While i was sitting in Mildura updating this I decided to take the long way home. i headed North from Mildura to Pooncarrie and Menindee. The road was sealed all the way to Pooncarrie but after that was a nightmare.......one moment 80KPH next minute walking pace, there was just no way to avoid the corrugations.
I headed fro Kinchega National Park, choosing a lovely site on the Darling River for the night.

campsite on the Darling River

  After packing up it was off to the old Kinchega Homestead ruins.

Kinchega Homestead ruins

I was a bit disapointed with the NSW Parks Service, the roads through the Park were atrocious. and after crawling down 10K of goat track I found the Lake campground where I wanted to stay was closed. A sign at the turnoff guys...........it isn't that hard...............
It was off to the old Kinchega Woolshed which i last visited in 1988. The lake system is full at the moment so is it is in vast contrast to my last visit to the lake in december 2009 (in a car)
The old Woolshed is magnificent and well worth the visit.

Kinchega Woolshed

kinchega Woolshed

old timber jinker (note wooden wheels)

 

Kinchega Woolshed

It was like stepping back in time looking at the displays inside the woolshed.

kinchega Woolshed

Kinchega Woolshed

Kinchega Woolshed

Boiler on wheels to move to where it was needed

Shearers Quarters (circa 1920)

The Shearers Quarters have been refurbished and are available to stay in if you want to pay for the privilege.
I an sitting overlooking a shimmering Menindee Lake as I update this in 32c temperatures.........I am looking forward to sunset over the lake tonight.

sunset Menindee Lakes

 

sunset Menindee Lakes

 

This trip

Tomorrow I am heading to Broken Hill for an overnight stop and then off home for now. I have covered Broken Hill in one of my previous blogs, so won't duplicate things here. 
Overall an excellent trip, the ute getting 11-12 litres per 100k at highway speeds and 9-10 litres per 100k at lower speeds. After about 1100k of dirt and corrugations nothing fell off and nothing broke, so I am pleased with that.
Bye for now.........