Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Tom Price to Karratha (via Karijini, Wittenoom and Millstream )

Hello all,
I headed out towards Karijini with the news of record low temperatures and the threat of rain. The previous day Newman had recorded at top temperature of 12c.......lower than Hobart!
The weather has been odd, to say the least. While it has been fantastic to see the area so lush and green I didn't come to the Pilbara to wear a beanie and hoodie.

Oxer Lookout, Karijini

The upside of these mining towns is fuel prices, $1.34 / litre in Parabadoo and Tom Price, along with reasonable grocery prices.

Oxer Lookout
Oxer Lookout
Knox Gorge
Knox Gorge
With the wet weather some roads were still closed, so it was back to the main road to get to Dales Campgrounds.

Mt Bruce 1235 metres
After a cool night at Dales it was time to explore Fortesque Falls and Fern Pool.

Fortesque Falls
Fortesque Falls
Fortesque Falls
A short walk upstream is Fern Pool and despite the cool temperatures some backpackers were swimming.....

Fern Pool
Fern Pool
I headed around the Hamersley Range through Munjina Gorge to Auski Roadhouse.


a lush green Pilbara
 
Munjina Gorge
From Munjina I headed towards Wittenoom, I came through here in 1989, stopped and had lunch at the store and drove to the gates of the Asbestos mine and took photos........

I was under the impression that only one lady still lived there since the town was closed, but it looks as if there are at least 6 places still occupied.

Wittenoom
Wittenoom
Wittenoom
looking towards Wittenoom Gorge
It is truly a tragedy that this stunningly beautiful area hides such a horrible past with the death toll still rising from Asbestosis.


Holiday Rental home in Wittenoom anyone?
Leaving Wittenoom it was a several hundred kilometer gravel run across to Millstream National Park, I remember this place being stunning, but the fires and floods of recent years have taken their toll.
Millstream Homestead, now the Visitors Centre
Fortesque River at Millstream

When I came through here in 1989, I remember Python Pool area to be stunning and I was not disappointed.
Chichester Range, Millstream
Chichester Range
Chichester Range
Chichester Range
Python Pool
After Python Pool it was transit into Karratha for laundry and shopping.

Pyramid Hill
 Tomorrow I plan to head out to Cleaverville, Wickham and Cossack before heading north towards Hedland.
Bye for now......

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Carnarvon to Tom Price (includes Quobba, Exmouth and Cape Range)

Hello all,
From Carnarvon I travelled out to Quobba Blowholes and the wreck of the Korean Star.

Quobba blowholes
Quobba Blowholes


I went up as far as the wreck of the Korean Star, I came to see this wreck back in, I think, about 1995 but after numerous cyclones there isn't much left. The poor Korean Star had a very short history, built in1984 the 184 metre bulk carrier dragged anchor off Cape Cuvier in cyclonic conditions on May 20 1988 while waiting for it's cargo of salt. The severe weather tossed it up onto the rock shelf and it broke in two. All 19 crew members survived.

Salt loading facility at Cape Cuvier
Quobba Coast



photo's I took in 1995

By the time I got to Coral Bay the rain started. It rained all the way to Exmouth, but the weather cleared out on Cape Range despite the forecast of 40-80mm of rain for the next few days. The wind was unrelenting and the flies worse, the water was also murky, so wasn't much good for snorkeling. The sunsets were spectacular though.

Osprey Camp Cape Range
Sunset at Osprey

Sunset at Osprey
Osprey Camp Cape Range
Cape Range
Sunset at Cape Range
Sunset at Cape Range
I could have spent weeks here but I have an appointment with the Kimberley for Winter......a note for those visiting Exmouth area though...............I was quoted $49/night single at the non Big4 Park in town, I believe the Big4 is about $10/night dearer!!!!!!! The National Park is $10 per person per night and the Visitors Centre has free Hot Showers and Free drinking water taps for filling your tanks.

Charles Knife Canyon, Cape Range (Exmouth Gulf in the background)
Charles Knife Canyon, Cape Range
I spent a night at Bullara Station Stay before the long drive out to Tom Price to restock. 



Tomorrow I plan to head out to the Gorges of Karajini National Park for a few days before cutting back through Millstream National Park to Karratha.
Bye for now......

Monday, April 13, 2015

Geraldton to Carnarvon

Hello all
Sorry for the delay in posting an update, but I had no reception for 9 days. Subsequently  there is a lot to update on.....
After a showery trip trip it was an overnight  in Kalbari before hitting the gorges the next day.
Murchison Gorge, Kalbari
Murchison Gorge

Murchison  Gorge
Goanna having a sunbake
After Cyclone Oswald, the flies are horrendous.....every time I get out of the vehicle I reach for the flynet, these tiny pests drive you mad!
Next overnight  was Billabong Roadhouse before turning West towards Monkey Mia. With Easter in a day or so I was looking for somewhere to hide.


Monkey Mia
Monkey Mia

Monkey Mia
 With Good Friday the next day, it was overnight in Denham before heading back to Hamelin Station Stay where I had picked up a week's work.

Eagle Bluff
Denham Lookout
Shell Beach
The week at Hamelin was testing........the weather was hot and humid, with daytime temperatures of low 30's and nights of 22-23c. A lot of overcast days with occasional  showers combined with unpowered sites only, tested my solar to the limits. 
The freezer was running overtime and the battery was struggling to keep up. With no tv or internet reception, I was told by other travellers that there was a large low off the coast and this was causing the solar unfriendly weather. 

Bore at Hamelin Station Stay
I stayed a day extra at Hamelin Station Stay and took the opportunity to tick another box. Years ago I did the lighthouse walk at Wilsons Promontory in Victoria, the most Southerly  point of the mainland, also having done Byron Bay Lighthouse  (most Easterly) and of course Cape York last Winter.
I couldn't be this close to Steep Point (most Westerly) and not go there. Also having the camper off was already sealed the deal. The track out there is shocking with corrugations  that need to be seen to be believed. The last 30 or so kilometres took nearly 3 hours to complete!
The track is narrow, corrugated, blind crests and corners with a few sand dunes thrown in as well.
Steep Point
Steep Point track
Steep Point track
Steep Point track


As you can imagine it made for a long uncomfortable day in an unladen 1 tonne ute. Whilst  am glad I did the trip to Steep Point, in retrospect it was too far for a day trip, leaving Hamelin at 7.30am and getting back at 5.00pm and hardly stopping all day.

False Entrance
Cliffs at False Entrance
The next morning it was time to pack up and move on from Hamelin, but not before an amazing sunset after I got back from Steep Point which heralded the change to clear skies and lower humidity.

Sunset at Hamelin Station
Sunset at Hamelin Station
On my way out it was off to see the Stromatalites at Hamelin Pool, these are the oldest living things on Earth, but just look like rocks and thrive in the shallow very salty warm waters of Hamelin Pool.
Hamelin Pool Stromatilites
Stromatilites
Tomorrow I head to Quobba Point for a few nights and another look at the wreck of the Korean Star, which I saw in 1996.

Bye for now.